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No bones about it: The butcher is back

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Knife in hand, Ryan Farr surveys the fresh whole lamb carcass stretched out on the cutting board, garnet flesh wrapped in a thin coat of pearlescent fat. He cuts into the ribs with the practiced skill of an old-time meat cutter, but Farr's not your grandmother's butcher. He's been on TV with Martha Stewart, has a new book out, Whole Beast Butchery, and is one of a group of culinary luminaries on the cutting edge of a new food movement - the carnivore connection. "A lot of people have gotten hip to, Who's your farmer? The next step is, Who's your butcher?" says Anya Fernald of Belcampo. The 10,000-acre farming operation in Northern California's Shasta Valley raises pastured and free range...

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